Book Review: Ciao Italia Family Classics

When it comes to Italian cuisine, Mary Ann Esposito is an institution. She is the host and creator of Ciao Italia with Mary Ann Esposito, the United States’ longest running cooking program which has been on the air since 1989. She is also the author of 12 Italian cookbooks and also has a website, www.ciaoitalia.com.

In her twelfth cookbook, Ciao Italia Family Classics, Esposito admits that she is both a traditionalist and a minimalist as she strives to let the best ingredients shine on their own in all of her recipes. Strongly influenced by both of her grandmothers and her mother, the author has created an outstanding collection of recipes featuring many Sicilian and Neapolitan favorites. In addition to the more than 200 recipes, Esposito also includes a chapter entitled “Italian Pantry Basics” where she describes the key ingredients most commonly used in Italian kitchens. She also stresses the importance of planning meals and bringing the family back to the dinner table to eat together despite busy, hectic schedules. The author contends that eating together, in the Italian tradition, promotes conversation, togetherness, reassurance, and relaxation. She also talks about the importance of teaching children about good food so that they can make healthy choices as adults.

While reviewing Ciao Italia Family Classics, it became evident early on that this book is a must have cookbook for anyone who loves Italian Cuisine. Indeed, it was difficult to choose just three recipes from this book. They were all very appetizing and most were accompanied by amazing, mouth-watering photos. Each recipe also had an interesting anecdote in which Mary Ann Esposito draws from her rich Italian heritage to describe the origins of the recipe and its importance to her. We decided to try the Arancine Siciliane (Sicilian Rice Balls), Calzone di Ricotta alla Mamma (Mom’s Ricotta Cheese Calzones), and Cannoli alla Nonna Saparito ( Nonna Saparito’s Cannoli). Esposito’s recipe for the risotto is delicious enough, but to then to roll it into balls and deep fry it takes it to ethereal levels. The Arancine Siciliane is an amazing side dish or appetizer that you absolutely have to try. The Ricotta Calzones were equally delicious. This is a simple recipe that lends itself to experimentation. There are a multitude of vegetables and meats that could be added to the cheese calzone base to create incredible entrees. For dessert we tried an Italian classic, cannoli. This was also relatively easy recipe that resulted in a delicious dessert with a light crispy shell combined with a cool, creamy, chocolaty filling. It was difficult to eat just three of these!

We give Ciao Italia Family classics 5 out of 5 stars. It is packed with recipes of traditional Italian favorites that are easy and accessible. In addition, most recipes include beautiful photographs and interesting descriptions. It would be a cherished collection of recipes for anyone that loves Italian cuisine.

Louisiana Habanero Hot Sauce Recipe

This is an easy recipe for a versatile, hot and sweet, Louisiana Habanero Hot Sauce. It works great as a regular hot sauce but it is also good to use as a dipping sauce for egg rolls, samosas, acarajé, malu paan, or other appetizers. You can adjust the overall heat by adjusting the number of habaneros to you own personal taste.

Recommended Equipment:
food processor or blender

Ingredients:
7 habanero peppers, seeded and chopped
1/2 cup molasses
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup yellow mustard
1 15oz. can sliced peaches in heavy syrup
1 cup white vinegar
1 tbsp kosher salt
1 tbsp fresh ground black pepper
2 tbsp paprika
1 tbsp ground cumin
1/2 tspn ground ginger
1/2 tspn ground coriander
1/2 tspn ground allspice

Preparation:

1. In a food processor or blender, add the peaches and heavy syrup. Pulse until the peaches are ground into a puree.
2. Add the habanero peppers, molasses, brown sugar, mustard, vinegar, kosher salt, paprika, cumin, ginger, coriander, and allspice to the food processor or blender.
3. Pulse mixture until it becomes a smooth liquid.
4. Pour the mixture into clean glass jars. Place caps on the jars and refrigerate at least one day before you use the sauce.

United States Louisiana [ print this recipe for Louisiana Habanero Hot Sauce ]

Cannoli alla Nonna Saporito Recipe

From Ciao Italia Family Classics by Mary Ann Esposito....

The queen of all Sicilian desserts is definitely cannoli. Cannoli probably originally came from Arabs, who influenced so much of Sicily’s cooking. These crisp, flaky pastry dough cylinders are filled with sweetened sheep’s milk ricotta cheese, nuts, citron, and bits of chocolate. I cherish Nonna Saporito’s old recipe that originally called for sheep’s milk ricotta cheese for the filling but when she came to America, it was impossible to find, so whole cow’s milk ricotta was substituted instead. Whenever I make these, I use her old and very worn wooden forms, fashioned from a broom handle, but stainless steel forms are available in kitchenware stores.

Ingredients:
Filling
1 1/2 cups whole-milk ricotta cheese, well drained
3 tbsp granulated sugar
1 1/2 tspn ground cinnamon
1 1/2 cups coarsely chopped milk chocolate (4 to 5 small bars)
1/4 cup pistachio nuts, coarsely chopped

Dough
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tbsp unsalted butter or lard
1 tbsp granulated sugar
4 to 5 tbsp dry Marsala wine
2 cups vegetable oil
colored sprinkles
confectioner's sugar for sprinkling

Preparation:

1. To make the filling, whip the cheese in a bowl until smooth. Stir in the granulated sugar, cinnamon, and chocolate. Refrigerate, covered with plastic wrap, until ready to fill the cannoli shells.
2. To make the dough, place the flour in a bowl or food processor. Add the butter or lard and sugar and mix with a fork, or pulse, until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Slowly add the 1/4 cup of wine and shape the mixture into a ball; add a little more wine if the dough appears too dry. It should be soft but not sticky. Knead the dough on a floured work surface until smooth, about 10 minutes. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 45 minutes.
3. Place the chilled dough on a floured work surface. Divide the dough in half. Work with 1 piece of dough at a time; keep the remaining dough refrigerated. Using a rolling pin or pasta machine set to the finest setting, roll the dough out to a very thin long rectangle about 14 inches long and 3 inches wide. Cut the dough into 3-inch squares. Place a cannoli form diagonally across one square. Roll the dough up around the form so the points meet in the center. Seal the points with a little water. Continue making cylinders until all the dough is used.
4. In an electric skillet(see note), heat the vegetable oil to 375 degrees Fahrenheit.
5. Fry the cannoli three or four at a time, turning them as they brown and blister, until golden brown on all sides. Drain them on brown paper or paper towels. When they are cool enough to handle, carefully slide the cannoli off the forms.
6. To serve, use a long iced tea spoon or pastry bag without a tip to fill the cannoli with the ricotta cheese mixture. Dip the ends into colored sprinkles, arrange them on a tray, and sprinkle confectioner's sugar over the tops. Serve at once.

Note: If you prefer, you can fry the cannoli in a deep fryer. Be sure to fill the cannoli just before serving - any sooner will result in soggy shells.

Makes 14 to 18 cannoli

Recipe courtesy of Ciao Italia Family Classics by Mary Ann Esposito

Italy [ print this recipe for Cannoli alla Nonna Saporito ]

Kir with a Kick Recipe

Un Kir, Sil Vous Plaît!
Not sure how to kick off a dinner gathering? You can't go wrong with a kir(rhymes with "beer" but is much more enchanting to drink). I've enjoyed it often in homes of families I've dined with, and you'd be hard-pressed to find a café or restaurant in France that does not serve this unofficial French national apértif. The drink was named after Félix Kir, a priest and hero of the French Resistance, who became mayor of Dijon after World War II and was said to have served the popular Burgundian drink at official gatherings.

To make a classic kir, pour a teaspoon or two of créme de cassis (black currant liqueur) into a small, stemmed glass, then fill the glass with chilled white wine. Rarely served in a copius portion (about 4 ounces of wine will do), the drink offers a gleeful little lift that chases away any lingering funk your guests might have brought with them from their day.

The wine traditionally used to make a kir is Burgundy's Aligoté, a white that's much less distinguished than the more famous white Burgundies made from Chardonnay. In fact, some sources say that the kir may have been invented as a way to put this otherwise unimpressive wine to its best possible use. Hence, there's no reason to seek out Aligoté to make a kir. A good, lightly citrusy dry white, such as a California Sauvignon Blanc, works nicely. If you can't find an imported créme de cassis (most domestic versions are, I'm afraid, lackluster), use a raspberry liqueur, such as Chambord.

But experiment. There are creative spins on the kir all over France (I'm dreaming now of a rosé wine-based kir, spiked with a liqueur made from a local berry, that I once savored in the village of Thueyts in the Ardéche). And of course, if you're feeling really splashy, clink glasses with a kir royale - a kir made with Champagne or sparkling wine instead of white wine.

Cognac adds virility to the classic kir royale, which is made with Champagne and black currant liqueur. It's a dashing way to kick off the evening.

For each cocktail:
Ingredients:
3/4 ounce Cognac
1/4 ounce créme de cassis or Chambord
Chilled Champagne or sparkling wine
1 raspberry (optional)

Preparation:

1. Pour the Cognac and the créme de cassis into a flute; fill the flute with Champagne. Garnish with a raspberry, if you like.

Recipe courtesy of The Bonne Femme Cookbook by Wini Moranville

France [ print this recipe for Kir ]

Sri Lankan Coconut Pumpkin Curry Recipe

This curry has an intense heat of chili running through it, which cuts through the rich, creamy coconut and sweet pumpkin. Use butternut squash if you can't get ahold of pumpkin.

Ingredients:
2 tbsp olive oil
2 pounds (900g) pumpkin or butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and chopped into bite sized pieces
2 red chilies, seeded and finely chopped
4 shallots, finely chopped
2 inches (5cm) piece of fresh ginger, peeled and grated
3 garlic cloves, grated
1 lemongrass stalk, trimmed, woody outer leaves removed, and finely chopped
juice of 1 lime
14 oz. (400ml) can coconut milk
2 cups hot vegetable stock for the slow cooker (3 cups for the traditional method)
pinch of dried chile flakes
about 6 packed cups spinach leaves
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preparation
In Slow Cooker

1. Preheat the slow cooker, if required. Heat half of the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium heat, add the pumpkin or butternut squash, and cook, stirring, for about 10 minutes until it begins to turn golden. Add the chilies and cook for a minute more.
2. Add the remaining oil and then stir in the shallots, ginger, garlic, and lemongrass. Add the lime juice and stir to scrape any sticky bits from the bottom of the pan. Add a little coconut milk and let it bubble for a few minutes. Transfer everything to the slow cooker, then pour in the remaining coconut milk and stock together with the chile flakes. Cover with the lid and cook on high for 3 - 4 hours.
3. Stir in the spinach and leave for a few minutes for it to wilt before serving. Taste and season, as necessary, and serve with rice.

Using traditional cooking method

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit (180 degrees Celcius). Heat half of the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium heat, add the pumpkin or butternut squash, and cook, stirring, for about 10 minutes until it begins to turn golden. Add the chilies and cook for a minute more.
2. Add the remaining oil and then stir in the shallots, ginger, garlic, and lemongrass. Add the lime juice and stir to scrape up the bits from the bottom of the pot. Add a little coconut milk and let it bubble for a few minutes.
3. Pour in the remaining coconut milk and the stock, and bring to a boil. Then reduce to a simmer, add the chile flakes, cover with the lid, and put in the oven for 1 hour. Check occasionally that it's not drying out, topping up with a little hot water if needed. Remove from the oven and stir in the spinach. It will wilt in the heat. Taste and season, as necessary, and serve with rice.
   

Serves 4 - 6

Recipe courtesy of The Slow Cook Book by Heather Whinney

Sri Lanka [ print this recipe for Sri Lankan Coconut Pumpkin Curry ]

Limoncello Recipe

Limoncello is an Italian citrus based liqueur that is usually served before or after meals. It originates from the Amalfi Coast region of Italy where lemons grow in abundance. Limoncello is usually served chilled and it is very popular in Italy during the warmer summer months. This traditional version of limoncello is lemon-based but similar liqueurs can be made from other citrus fruits. If you have the patience (this recipe takes about 35 days to make), limoncello is an easy liqueur to make at home. Staying true to this Italian classic, we used I Spirit Italian Vodka for this recipe.

Ingredients:
8 lemons
2 cups granulated sugar
2 1/2 cups water
2 vanilla beans
1 750 mL bottle of vodka (we used I Spririt Italian Vodka)

Preparation:

1. Wash the lemons and pat dry with a kitchen towel.
2. Zest each of the lemons using a grater or vegetable peeler. Only use the outer yellow part of the rind.
   
3. Pour the vodka into a large glass jar. A large Mason jar should work for a single bottle of vodka. Be sure to save the vodka bottle for bottling the limoncello when it is finished.
   
4. Add the lemon zest to the jar.
5. Scrape out the small seeds out of the vanilla beans and add them to the jar along with the vanilla beans.
6. Put the cap back on the jar and let it sit in a dark place at room temperature for 30 days.
7. After 30 days have passed, combine the sugar and water in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring the mixture to a gentle boil for about 6 minutes.
8. Remove the saucepan from the heat and let it cool.
9. Using a sieve lined with a paper coffee filter, filter the lemon rind and vanilla seeds and bean from the limoncello. Pour the pure limoncello back into the jar.
10. Add the cooled syrup to the jar containing the limoncello. Gently mix the syrup in with the limoncello. Put the cap back onto the jar and let the mixture age for another 5 days.
11. After 5 days have passed, using a funnel pour the limoncello back into the original vodka bottle.
    
12. Store the limoncello in the freezer or refrigerator until you are ready to serve it. Serve the limoncello ice cold in shot glasses.

Italy [ print this recipe for limoncello ]

Interview: Chef Tyler Florence

Chef Tyler Florence has hosted several programs on The Food Network including Food 911 and How to Boil Water and currently hosts Tyler's Ultimate. He is a graduate of the College of Culinary Arts at the Charleston, South Carolina campus of Johnson & Wales University.

In addition to his work in television, he has also developed three new restaurant concepts in the San Francisco Bay Area: Rotisserie & Wine in Napa, El Paseo in Mill Valley, and the Wayfare Tavern in San Francisco. Florence is also the author of several cook books including:

Family Meal
Dinner at My Place
Stirring the Pot
Tyler's Ultimate: Brilliant Simple Food to Make Any Time
Eat This Book: Cooking With Global Fresh Flavors
Real Kitchen

also mentioned in this interview:
Alexia Foods
Husk Restaurant - Charleston
McCrady's Restaurant - Charleston
The Lion - New York City
Wayfare Tavern - San Francisco